Recently my mamiya tlr 65mm lens got problem – the shutter blade won’t open at whatever speeds. I did some internet search and found some very useful information regarding repairing or fixing mamiya tlr lenses.
below is a summary of these information from various sources:
the first set of pictures are from flickr: Jones_Industries
Mamiya Service Manual 65mm Lenses
Scans from the Mamiya Service Manual, courtesy of the very kind Jack Fisher from photo.net
Mamiya 65mm f/3.5 exploded view
Scans from the Mamiya Service Manual, courtesy of the very kind Jack Fisher from photo.net
some detailed information regarding how to service / repair mamiya tlr or lenses can be found in a french blog site: http://tlr-mamiya-c.blogspot.sg/
of course, you can use google translate to make it to english
and lastly, an enlightening post on dpreview: http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/thread/2944339
Lessons learned from restoring old Mamiya TLR lensesJan 23, 2011
For the older photographers in our forum, that use or plan to use Mamiya TLR cameras and lenses. Here are my lessons learned from repairing a couple of used “chrome” Mamiya TLR lenses. The usual disclaimer, use the lessons learned at your own risk.
Zero, before you start handling the lenses wash your hands. Use a clean white towel on a well lighted table as your work area. Should a part or screw fall out it will not go far and can be seen.
First, do not remove the lens from the back plane frame, there is no need to access the lens from that side. Front and rear optical assemblies unscrew. There is no need to use a spanner wrench on the retaining clamps that secure the lens to the supporting frame.
Second, if the shutter will not cock the chances are a single screw has come loose within the shutter assembly that can be restored. This screw is located at the two O’clock position viewing the exposed taking lens shutter assembly straight on with upper rings and cam plate removed, viewing lens at 12 o’clock.
Third, if the shutter cocks but does not operate the blades when released a different screw is loose or has fallen out, that can be restored. This is located just south of the release lever mechanism. Check all screws for tightness.
Fourth, never use oil on any part of the shutter mechanism or ring assemblies or aperture assemblies.
Fifth, if the aperture blades mechanism is stuck or sticky, this can be cured using small amounts of 91% isopropyl rubbing alcohol applied with a damp Q-tip. To access the aperture internal assembly, This will require unscrewing the rear optical assembly. Work the mechanism manually using the aperture selector arm, do not touch the blades with your fingers and use another Q-tip to remove excess and any grime. Do not use oil. Be sure to remove any lint left behind by the Q-tips prior to reassembly.
Sixth, if the shutter ring is sticky or the clicks indents are not “sharp”, disassemble the two rings and clean them with isopropyl alcohol. Slightly bend the metal finger on the cam plate that engages the indents on the shutter selection ring.
Seventh, screws are tiny, and can be lost in a flash. For most repairs I have done only one screw has to be removed.
Eighth, acquire the proper tools, i.e. jewelers screwdrivers, needle nose tweezers, etc. A spanner wrench designed for lenses is required (see lesson 10) to remove the optical retaining rings that hold the individual elements. If you do this be sure to note on paper which side is up, in or out facing. Do not rely on your memory.
Ninth, use ROR per the instructions to clean the optics, and do not use canned air.
Tenth, use rubbing alcohol mentioned above with your finger tips (no fingernails, just skin) in a circular motion to remove fungus clouds from optical surfaces. It may require several times to completely remove the fungus. Do not allow excess to drip anywhere. Clean with a lint free, chemical free (no anti static chemicals used in the dryer), white cotton t-shirt. Then use ROR with a t-shirt to remove any residues.
So far, I have restored two Mamiya TLR chrome shutter lenses and both are working fine now. They were a lost cause when I started. They are simple in design and easy to restore.
If you have any second thoughts I recommend taking your lens to a repair facility. But if you are a risk taker and have some common mechanical sense, my lessons learned may prove useful. Search the web for other information sources, and photographs of the lens assembly.
nce a month, we bring you a tipster from Lomography.com. Their ever-growing database of film knowledge offers tricks, tips and techniques that often outside the realm of mainstream photography.
Fungus can slowly take over and destroy your precious lenses and film. If you are still not aware of this problem that could be growing on your gear, get acquainted with this guide which explains, among other things, what fungus is, what it does to your equipment, and how you can prevent it.
What is this dreaded fungus?
If you buy new equipment and take good care of it, you may not encounter fungus. But if you own any vintage cameras or old lenses, this could be a problem and you may not even know it!
When you think of fungus, you may think of mushrooms, yeast, alcohol fermentation, traditional Chinese medicine or even fungal skin infections (ack!), but mould can be deadly for camera equipment and film.
Fungus is a tiny organism that can grow on film and lens surfaces, inside lenses, between the elements, and under lens coatings. It sets down its “roots” very quickly and multiplies even faster. It is very hard to remove fungus completely once it has taken hold, so it’s best to start prevention before it appears.
How exactly is it bad for my equipment and film?
As it grows on glass, it can permanently etch the surface, causing your photos to become “soft”, less contrasty, have more flare, or slightly darker. On film, once it sets in, the same thing happens. As it has “set roots” in, even if you wipe it away, there are still marks remaining. The effects of fungus may take years to become visible on photos though.
How does fungus get on my lenses and film?
High humidity is the main cause, so if you live in the tropics, or often go shooting in the rain, beware! Fungus is among the most abundant organisms in the world, and it mostly multiplies by teeny spores, which are everywhere. They can find their way into lenses because they are so small. Moisture (from rain, or the high humidity) then helps it grow at super speed.
How do I spot it and what does it look like?
Take out your lens, open it to the widest aperture (biggest hole), and hold it up to bright light. You can also use a torch light and shine it on the lens. Look through the lens. If you see something that looks like dust, but more spidery and in blobs or clumps, you’re in trouble.
Here are a few examples:
Image from photo.net
The image above shows it in early blob stage. It’s past the part where it could be mistaken for dust, as it’s clumping together and multiplying.
Image from clubsnap
This image above is how it looks when it has taken over the whole lens surface, which is bad news.
Image from pentaxforums
On rare occasions, it could look like bacteria. As shown in the example above, fungus usually starts from the edge of the lens and grows inwards.
The example above is how it could look like on film, which is in blobs as well. The fungus was spidery too, but that can’t be seen here.
How do I prevent its growth?
There is no definite way of keeping fungus out given its tiny and effective spores. I have had lenses kept in dry conditions yet they magically grew fungus. However, there are some good ways to lower its chances of taking hold. Fungus thrives in humid (and dark) places, so the best way would be to suck its life-giving moisture out. So take your lenses and film out of your drawers and boxes right now!
Some ways to keep humidity low:
Image from madeinchina.com
Silica gel is not really a gel. It is most commonly sold in the form of tiny beads (above), and is useful for controlling humidity. If you buy stuff and see packets saying “do not eat”, it most likely contains silica gel beads. Please, do not eat it. To use it, buy a dry box (sealed or airtight case) first – then pour the beads in and keep your equipment or film in the box. The beads will change colour when they absorb moisture.
Keep an eye on them and when they show water saturation, you should either buy a new pack of beads or heat them up until they return to their original colour (meaning they are highly absorbant again). Some people have stir-fried the beads in a pan, baked them in an oven, or even microwaved it. Just don’t reuse that pan or baking tray for food! You could also try sunning them for reuse.
The dry cabinet is probably the best option as it gives you more control over the humidity. It comes with an analogue dial or tells you digitally (above) what level the humidity is, and you can also choose your humidity level. Camera equipment is best stored at 35-45% humidity.
About humidity: Don’t keep levels too low as cameras and lenses are lightly lubricated and low humidity could dry up that oil quickly, making your lenses zoom slower than normal, for example.
Otherwise, the dehumidifier also sucks out moisture, but this would have to be an enclosed room. Aircon is also an option, because cold air holds less moisture, but it consumes lots of electricity and is expensive.
Another way to fight fungus growth would be to use your equipment regularly. Keeping it for too long in a dry cabinet won’t help as cameras should get some fresh air from time to time. Cameras used daily are much less likely to get fungus (but more dust) than those which are kept even in less humid conditions.
How do I get rid of fungus?
Once it has grown on the lens or film, it will likely return even after being removed. Thus it is best to follow the prevention methods above. However, if your lenses have caught the fungi bug, you can either clean it yourself, or send it for professional cleaning.
Self-cleaning is more possible when the fungus is on the exterior of the lens. Use hydrogen peroxide, bleach or rubbing alcohol to wipe the glass surface gently, which will likely kill as well as remove the fungus. Lens cleaning paper, like this one below, is best as it is lintless and soft, making it less likely to scratch your lens.
Professional cleaning is the best, and sometimes only, option, when the fungus has grown inside the lens. These specialists will give it a thorough cleaning for a certain price. In Singapore, it costs about $80-100 to get a lens cleaned at a camera shop. If the fungus has etched the glass surface, the lens may need to be polished and require a new coating as well.
Alternative methods (which have both worked and failed for people)
Some have tried sunning their lenses by leaving it in the open, or putting their fungus-infected equipment under UV lamps. This has worked for some, and also boosted fungus growth for some, so please be wary if trying it.
For film, some have recommended putting it in the freezer and then wiping off the fungus gently when there is condensation. I have tried this and it worked but temporarily only as the fungus came back.
It won’t go away…
However, as mentioned earlier, please note that fungus can make a dreaded return, even if you store it in a dry cabinet after cleaning. Certain items are just more prone to fungus. I kept all my lenses in one dry cabinet in the past, and two showed signs of fungus (they were moved to a separate dry cabinet) while the rest were, and still are, fine. This has been the case for many other photographers as well. In the case that fungus starts growing on your lens again, please keep it separately from the rest of your equipment.
To sum it up!
Use your equipment as much as possible. After each use, let it air dry then store it in a low-humidity environment. The same goes for film – keep it in a dry cabinet if possible, or years down the road your memories could be etched with fungus.
Please leave any comments if you have any other suggestions on how to keep fungus at bay or how to remove it!
It’s a safe bet that most of you never heard of lens fungus, but it’s a reality that you have to deal with in humid climates. Lens fungus will rear its ugly head when moisture gets trapped inside the lens. What lens fungus does is cause cloudy patterns to form on the lens. Fungus first starts growing in the lens barrel feeding off all the accumulated dust particles. The best way to avoid dust and lens fungus is to keep your camera and lenses cleaned and in airtight containers with bags of silica gel, which absorbs moisture. You’ll want to periodically clean the outside of your lenses – the glass and the lens barrel – to remove any dust deposits and to remove any grease deposits (this is food for the fungi).
Store in a Dry Place
Avoid lens fungus by always storing your photo equipment in a cool, dry place. If you live in a humid area, then store your equipment in airtight containers with small bags of moisture-absorbing silica gel (those white bags that were packed with your lens when you bought it). You may need to buy some at your local camera shop. Remember to periodically change the silica, as it loses effectiveness as it becomes full of moisture over time. Some types of silica gels packs are re-useable after drying in a low oven. With the camera and lenses packed airtight with moisture-absorbing gel, they should be safe. Remember that it’s important to let your equipment dry out as much as possible prior to sealing it all up. Fungus will grow on your lens in less than a week if you expose it to damp, dark, and warm conditions, so please avoid these at all costs.
Keep a Plastic Bag Handy
It’s raining outside and you want to take advantage of the all the great reflections, so you venture outside and brave the raindrops. The first thing to remember – before you step out the door – is to wrap your camera in a Ziploc bag to avoid moisture from getting inside the camera. If you forget to do this, then you must completely and effectively dry your camera and the lens before safely storing them. One last storage caution – avoid storing your camera in leather bags, where fungi can easily grow and eventually harm the camera.
Removing Lens Fungus
If your camera happens to get infected with fungus, you need to act quickly because some fungi secrete acid that will eat away at your lens’ protective coating; the fungi may even etch the glass and ruin the lens. Luckily for us, this type of fungus is rare. There are few mixtures you can make to clear away fungus. A hydrogen peroxide blend with ammonia is a good method, as is a vinegar and water solution to remedy the fungus problem. Make sure you don’t delay, or you’ll need to have the lens professionally dismantled and cleaned, which will be expensive. If the lens has to be re-coated, then you’re looking at another big charge.
Your camera is an investment – perhaps a major investment, and the regular and proper maintenance of the camera body, the lenses and other equipment will ensure that your investment will last for over a decade. Don’t skimp, because there’s nothing more frustrating than missing that once-in-a-lifetime photo because the camera is not working or is damaged. Treat your camera and equipment with care and respect, and they should provide you with many years of good service, exciting memories and fantastic pictures.