Tag Archives: business

Rollei TLR Filters

Are you looking for some Rollei filters? We have a basket of filters for sale!!

ROLLEI B&W FILTERS FACTORS AND EV NUMBERS COMPENSATING TABLE: Rollei used filter factors numbers up to about 1955/56, they were not marked on the filters ring, the table above shows these numbers and main uses for these filters, it also shows the EV compensating numbers engraved in the filters ring from 1955/56. (click on thumbnail).-
Note: Rollei TLR cameras Infra-red filters are already compensated for the IR photography focus shift.
ANTI-REFLECTION COATING: Rollei filters were coated from about 1950/51, “The practical accesories Rolleiflex Rolleicord” booklet from 1954 says: “…All Rollei optical lens accesories are treated with a hard, abrasion-resistant anti-reflection coating. In addition the coating of each filter is adjusted to enhance the effect of the filter’s color and for maximum contrast…”
ROLLEI FILTERS EV COMPENSATING NUMBERS AND FILTERS EQUIVALENCES
Rollei filters rings were marked with Exposure Values compensating numbers after Rollei started to use Compur shutters and cameras with the Exposure Values System (EVS), these numbers were used for Rollei TLR, Rollei 35, Rolleiflex SL 66, Rolleiflex 35mm SLR, Rollei SLX/6000 and other cameras B&W filters (see EV numbers and equivalences in the table above, click on thumbnail).
SOME ROLLEI B&W FILTERS SAMPLES
Rollei B&W filters rings were engraved with different words along the years, pre-war filters up to about 1937 were clip-on type,  earliest Bayonet I (1938), II (1949) and III (1952) filters have the filter diameter marked in the ring, the filter type, “Rollei” and “Germany” and “Franke & Heidecke”, from about 1953 a red “R” indicating coating replaced the diameter mark, a black “R” replaced the red one afterward and from 1956 the marks were “R”+bayonet size, “Rollei” and filter type, “Germany” and the EV compensating number. The photograph above shows: “A”:  R(bayonet) II UV filter engraved like filters from 1956 but without EV number mark, some -0 filters have the mark anyway. “B”: This B III filter is older than “A”, it has the red “R” without bayonet size and it does not have the EV compensating number mark. “C”: Rollei 35 Tessar UV filter marked “R00”, “Rollei UV” and “Germany” without EV number, however other Rollei 35 B&W filters have the EV number mark. “D”: SL66  B VI light red filter, it has engraved “Rollei-hellrot” (light red), “-2 -3.5”, “R VI” and “Germany” in the filter ring edge (no visible). “E” : B III medium yellow filter marked as described for filters from 1956, this filter box is different regarding boxes from the “F&H” era, it has the “Rollei-Werke Franke&Heidecke” company name and then it is at least from 1964. “F”: A BIII light red filter, it is engraved like the “E” but it is older, from the “F&H” era.(click on thumbnail).
ROLLEI INSTRUCTIONS FOR ORANGE AND RED FILTERS (SEVERAL LANGUAGES)
        German, English and French (click on thumbnail)

Italian, Portuguese and Spanish (click on thumbnail)

ROLLEI COLOR CONVERSION FILTERS

Rollei colour conversion filters for colour photography were made from 1956. The image shows my 2.8C Xenotar with a Rollei R1 (R10) and R5 (R50) filters fitted together on the Xenotar making an R6 (R60) filter (see the tables below to read about the Rollei colour conversion filters system, click on thumbnail).

The table above explains the scale and system used for the colour filters effect and filters power and mentions each filter available for the regular three TLR cameras bayonet with the commercial code, the WA Rolleiflex B IV is not included (click on thumbnail)


Tables A and B work together for the Practical Accesories printed version, you can obtain some useful info anyway (click on thumbnail)

Filter factors for common filters

The table below gives approximate filter factors for a variety of common photographic filters.

Filter purpose Wratten number Other designation Filter factor
Ultraviolet UV(0) 1
Skylight 1A or 1B KR1.5 1
Contrast filters
Yellow 8 Y, K2, Y48, 022 2
Yellow-green 11 X0 http://www.hoyafilter.com/products/hoya/cf-09.html 4
Orange 21 G 3
Light Red 25 090, R2 4
Red 29 25A, 091 8
Green 58 X1 http://www.hoyafilter.com/products/hoya/cf-09.html 6
Infra-Red 89B R72 16
Colour conversion (blue)
3200 K to 5500 K 80A KB15 4
3400 K to 5500 K 80B KB12 3
3800 K to 5500 K 80C KB6 2
Warming filters
3400 K to 3200 K 81A A2 1.4
3500 K to 3200 K 81B 1.4
3600 K to 3200 K 81C KR3 1.4
3700 K to 3200 K 81D 1.5
3850 K to 3200 K 81EF KR6 1.5
Cooling filters
3000 K to 3200 K 82A B2, KB1.5 1.3
2900 K to 3200 K 82B 1.5
2800 K to 3200 K 82C KB3 1.5
Colour conversion (orange)
5500 K to 3400 K 85 / 85A KR12 1.6
5500 K to 3200 K 85B KR15 1.6
5500 K to 3800 K 85C 1.3
Neutral density
0.3 96 NDx2 2
0.6 96 NDx4 4
0.9 96 NDx8 8
3.0 96 NDx1000 1000
Polarizers
Linear polarizer PL or LP 3 to 4
Circular polarizer PL-Cir, C-PL, CP 3 to 4

Mamiya TLR Restoration/ Repair Lessons

Read the FUll Topic

For the older photographers in our forum, that use or plan to use Mamiya TLR cameras and lenses. Here are my lessons learned from repairing a couple of used “chrome” Mamiya TLR lenses. The usual disclaimer, use the lessons learned at your own risk.

Zero, before you start handling the lenses wash your hands. Use a clean white towel on a well lighted table as your work area. Should a part or screw fall out it will not go far and can be seen.

First, do not remove the lens from the back plane frame, there is no need to access the lens from that side. Front and rear optical assemblies unscrew. There is no need to use a spanner wrench on the retaining clamps that secure the lens to the supporting frame.

Second, if the shutter will not cock the chances are a single screw has come loose within the shutter assembly that can be restored. This screw is located at the two O’clock position viewing the exposed taking lens shutter assembly straight on with upper rings and cam plate removed, viewing lens at 12 o’clock.

Third, if the shutter cocks but does not operate the blades when released a different screw is loose or has fallen out, that can be restored. This is located just south of the release lever mechanism. Check all screws for tightness.

Fourth, never use oil on any part of the shutter mechanism or ring assemblies or aperture assemblies.

Fifth, if the aperture blades mechanism is stuck or sticky, this can be cured using small amounts of 91% isopropyl rubbing alcohol applied with a damp Q-tip. To access the aperture internal assembly, This will require unscrewing the rear optical assembly. Work the mechanism manually using the aperture selector arm, do not touch the blades with your fingers and use another Q-tip to remove excess and any grime. Do not use oil. Be sure to remove any lint left behind by the Q-tips prior to reassembly.

Sixth, if the shutter ring is sticky or the clicks indents are not “sharp”, disassemble the two rings and clean them with isopropyl alcohol. Slightly bend the metal finger on the cam plate that engages the indents on the shutter selection ring.

Seventh, screws are tiny, and can be lost in a flash. For most repairs I have done only one screw has to be removed.

Eighth, acquire the proper tools, i.e. jewelers screwdrivers, needle nose tweezers, etc. A spanner wrench designed for lenses is required (see lesson 10) to remove the optical retaining rings that hold the individual elements. If you do this be sure to note on paper which side is up, in or out facing. Do not rely on your memory.

Ninth, use ROR per the instructions to clean the optics, and do not use canned air.

Tenth, use rubbing alcohol mentioned above with your finger tips (no fingernails, just skin) in a circular motion to remove fungus clouds from optical surfaces. It may require several times to completely remove the fungus. Do not allow excess to drip anywhere. Clean with a lint free, chemical free (no anti static chemicals used in the dryer), white cotton t-shirt. Then use ROR with a t-shirt to remove any residues.

So far, I have restored two Mamiya TLR chrome shutter lenses and both are working fine now. They were a lost cause when I started. They are simple in design and easy to restore.

If you have any second thoughts I recommend taking your lens to a repair facility. But if you are a risk taker and have some common mechanical sense, my lessons learned may prove useful. Search the web for other information sources, and photographs of the lens assembly.

Good luck,

d2f

Wedding Photography – Recommended

Bill Hunter’s book “The best of wedding photography” is one of the best photography books I love to read. 

It not only discusses about the techniques and tools in wedding photography, but also the mindset of wedding photographer as well as the landscape of wedding photography market. The book is written in a complete inside-out approach, i.e., start from the mindset and heart of a wedding photographer, towards the techniques, equipments, as well as design.

Below is the wedding index. If you are lucky, you may find some online materials available through google search.

Could you imagine how photographers do wedding using TLR? I heard from many that 40-50 years ago it is actually very popular to use TLR to do wedding…

Seems that you can get the book here.