1.0.2 Focus scale plates
1.0.3 Multi-exposure function
1.0.4 Shutter idiosyncrasies
1.0.5 Names and Dates
2.2 Lens hoods
2.3 Optical design
2.4 Lens coating
2.5 Shutters and flash synchronisation
2.6 Dating lenses (and bodies and accessories)
2.7 Focal length comparison
4.1 55mm f4.5
4.2 65mm f3.5
4.3.1 80mm f2.8
4.3.2 80mm f2.8 `S’
4.4 80mm f3.7
4.5 105mm f3.5
4.6 105mm f3.5 D & DS
4.7 135mm f4.5
4.8 180mm f4.5
4.9 180mm f4.5 Super
4.10 250mm f6.3
5.2 Exposure compensation
5.3 Parallax compensation
5.4 Parallax correction
5.5 Lens performance
6.3.2 Pistol grip, mechanical linkage, type 1
6.3.3 Pistol grip, mechanical linkage, type 2
6.4.2 WLF, Type 2
6.4.3 WLF Magnifier
6.4.4 Magnifying Hood
6.4.5 CdS Magnifying Hood
6.4.6 Porrofinder (also known as `Porroflex’)
6.4.7 CdS Porrofinder
6.4.8 Prism finder
6.4.9 Mirror Finder
9.2 Cokin filter mount
9.4 Other finders
9.5 Maxwell screens
9.6 Long roll Mamiyaflexes
9.7 Sekonic L-208 light meter mounting
10.1 Close-up Depth of Field Tables
10.2 Depth of Field Table, 55mm
10.3 Depth of Field Table, 65mm
10.4 Depth of Field Table, 80mm
10.5 Depth of Field Table, 105mm
10.6 Depth of Field Table, 135mm
10.7 Depth of Field Table, 180mm
10.8 Depth of Field Table, 250mm
10.9 Hyperfocal Distance Table
11 User hints
11.2 Lens caps
11.3 Light traps
11.4 Front Element Converters
11.4.2 35mm and digital format front element converters
11.4.3 General points on front element converters
16.1 Shutter release problems
For the older photographers in our forum, that use or plan to use Mamiya TLR cameras and lenses. Here are my lessons learned from repairing a couple of used “chrome” Mamiya TLR lenses. The usual disclaimer, use the lessons learned at your own risk.
Zero, before you start handling the lenses wash your hands. Use a clean white towel on a well lighted table as your work area. Should a part or screw fall out it will not go far and can be seen.
First, do not remove the lens from the back plane frame, there is no need to access the lens from that side. Front and rear optical assemblies unscrew. There is no need to use a spanner wrench on the retaining clamps that secure the lens to the supporting frame.
Second, if the shutter will not cock the chances are a single screw has come loose within the shutter assembly that can be restored. This screw is located at the two O’clock position viewing the exposed taking lens shutter assembly straight on with upper rings and cam plate removed, viewing lens at 12 o’clock.
Third, if the shutter cocks but does not operate the blades when released a different screw is loose or has fallen out, that can be restored. This is located just south of the release lever mechanism. Check all screws for tightness.
Fourth, never use oil on any part of the shutter mechanism or ring assemblies or aperture assemblies.
Fifth, if the aperture blades mechanism is stuck or sticky, this can be cured using small amounts of 91% isopropyl rubbing alcohol applied with a damp Q-tip. To access the aperture internal assembly, This will require unscrewing the rear optical assembly. Work the mechanism manually using the aperture selector arm, do not touch the blades with your fingers and use another Q-tip to remove excess and any grime. Do not use oil. Be sure to remove any lint left behind by the Q-tips prior to reassembly.
Sixth, if the shutter ring is sticky or the clicks indents are not “sharp”, disassemble the two rings and clean them with isopropyl alcohol. Slightly bend the metal finger on the cam plate that engages the indents on the shutter selection ring.
Seventh, screws are tiny, and can be lost in a flash. For most repairs I have done only one screw has to be removed.
Eighth, acquire the proper tools, i.e. jewelers screwdrivers, needle nose tweezers, etc. A spanner wrench designed for lenses is required (see lesson 10) to remove the optical retaining rings that hold the individual elements. If you do this be sure to note on paper which side is up, in or out facing. Do not rely on your memory.
Ninth, use ROR per the instructions to clean the optics, and do not use canned air.
Tenth, use rubbing alcohol mentioned above with your finger tips (no fingernails, just skin) in a circular motion to remove fungus clouds from optical surfaces. It may require several times to completely remove the fungus. Do not allow excess to drip anywhere. Clean with a lint free, chemical free (no anti static chemicals used in the dryer), white cotton t-shirt. Then use ROR with a t-shirt to remove any residues.
So far, I have restored two Mamiya TLR chrome shutter lenses and both are working fine now. They were a lost cause when I started. They are simple in design and easy to restore.
If you have any second thoughts I recommend taking your lens to a repair facility. But if you are a risk taker and have some common mechanical sense, my lessons learned may prove useful. Search the web for other information sources, and photographs of the lens assembly.
The Mamiya Flex name was used for a series of fixed lens twin-lens reflex cameras built from 1948 to about 1956. These had ‘A’ and ‘B’ designations, hence the ‘C’ in the interchangeable lens models. Refer to the Mamiya web page (Section 13) for details. The dates of manufacture are very difficult to confirm. Some references quote the date of announcement, others the date of first availability in a particular country. Further more, older models would still be available new for a period. The basic C220/C330 design, with minor modifications, lasted some 26 of the 38 year production history.
TLRgraphy: Mamiya TLR has a very very unique feature…. they are very very well-built, which means they are very very heavy!!