Tag Archives: TLR

A nice reading on TLR

One of the family

 

ODD how a surprise gift from the past—in this case, a medium-format camera inherited from a deceased relative—can rekindle an interest left dormant by advancing time and technology. According to a faded receipt, the camera in question, an early Rolleiflex Automat, was bought in 1937 by an uncle and taken back to Africa, where he was a missionary doctor. On his return to Britain many years later, the camera was put into storage where, for some unfathomable reason, it remained untouched for the better part of half a century.

Your correspondent wrote late last year about the pleasure he gets on all-too rare occasions from firing up his ancient Hasselblad SLR (single-lens reflex) camera and shooting off a roll or two of 120 colour-reversal film (see “Point, shot, discard”, December 31st 2011). The sudden acquisition of the Rollei TLR (twin-lens reflex) has renewed his passion for medium-format cameras with their attractive 6cm-by-6cm picture frame.

But before loading one of the rolls of 120 film he keeps stashed in the fridge, he considered it best first to have the old Rollei cleaned, lubed and adjusted. Leaving the 75-year-old antique with a local camera shop was out of the question. Clearly, the work would have to be done by a technician who understood the foibles of this legendary piece of equipment. But who?

Rolleiflex cameras were made by Franke & Heidecke in Braunschweig, Germany, from 1929 until the firm went bust in 2009—a victim of rising costs, the recession and changes in the marketplace. DHW Fototechnik, a firm resurrected from the ashes of Franke & Heidecke by former employees, continues the good work, albeit on a reduced scale.

A trawl of the internet netted just two sources of technical expertise with the requisite reputations. In Frankfurt, there was Jürgen Kushnik, who had learned the trade at RolleiWerke in Braunschweig, and had risen through the ranks to become branch manager of Rollei of America, before returning to his native Germany.

The other was Harry Fleenor, who had spent over 45 years repairing Rolleis at factory service centres in the United States. When the company went out of business, Mr Fleenor bought all the test gear from Rollei of America and set up shop in Manhattan Beach, California—just 15 miles down the coast from where your correspondent resides. With camera in hand, he was round at Mr Fleenor’s repair shop in a trice.

No question that Oceanside Camera Repair in Manhattan Beach has a global reputation among Rolleiholics. Endorsements from around the world cover the walls of Mr Fleenor’s store. The business has so much work on hand that your correspondent will be lucky to get his refurbished Rollei—complete with a new Maxwell screen—back before Christmas. That alone speaks volumes about the resurgent interest in the brand.

In fact, analogue cameras generally are enjoying something of a revival. In part, this is due to the plethora of old film cameras that can now be had for a song on eBay and elsewhere. Over the past decade, professional as well as amateur photographers have flooded the second-hand market with analogue cameras in excellent condition as they traded up to ever-more exotic digital models.

But something more fundamental is at work as well. Tales abound in photographic circles about an irreverent band of shutterbugs who have become disillusioned with digital. Your correspondent can understand why.

On the one hand, he appreciates the way digital cameras let him experiment endlessly by taking numerous shots of a scene, each time with a different exposure setting, and then deleting or editing the less successful ones until an all-but perfect image remains. On the other hand, he enjoys the challenge and forethought involved in setting up a shot with an analogue camera. The discipline of having only a dozen shots on a roll of 120 film concentrates the mind no end. Making every image count heightens the sense of achievement.

While modern digital cameras are marvels of automation, they have become almost too efficient at doing their job. Lost in the process is a sense of personal satisfaction that comes from solving the exposure equation oneself. It is hardly surprising that a growing number of people find them more than a little sterile.

What is surprising, though, is that—despite all the wonderful old cameras and lenses on the secondhand market that are capable of taking pin-sharp pictures—today’s analogue renaissance is being invigorated largely by a movement that preaches “low-fidelity” photography. The movement, known as lomography, gets its name from a toy camera made by the LOMO optics company in the former Soviet Union. The Lomography Society, founded in Austria in the early 1990s, comprises both a world-wide community of users and a company that produces a line of cheap analogue cameras and film for enthusiasts.

Lomographers advocate spontaneity and favour optical distortion and intense colour saturation in their pictures. Cheap cameras with plastic lenses help create the distortion, while any leakage of light into a camera body is accepted as part of the creative process. In rejecting the values of classical composition and processing, lomography is closer to abstract art than analogue photography.

One particular trick lomographers use widely is cross-processing. This involves processing colour positive film for slides (normally developed using the so-called E-6 process) using the chemistry for developing colour negative film for prints (the C-41 process). This produces images with the intense saturation and high contrast that are prized by the community.

Occasionally, the technique is reversed, with colour negative film being developed as if it were slide film. This muddies the colours and flattens the contrast. Yet another technique, called redscale processing, is employed when colour print film is deliberately loaded into the camera back-to-front, allowing the film to be exposed from the wrong side. The resulting images have a strong red cast.

The best thing about the global lomography movement, though, is not so much the abstract images it celebrates, but the way it has helped revive the dying business of film processing. For that, analogue photographers everywhere can rejoice. And thanks especially to the lomography movement’s enthusiasm for the Lubitel, a simple medium-format TLR made in Russia by LOMO, online services have sprung up to process 120 roll film properly, quickly and at reasonable prices. Two of the most successful online labs today are 120processing.com and oldschoolphotolab.com.

With his recently acquired Rolleiflex, your correspondent is looking forward to becoming more knowledgeable about TLR photography. Having, until recently, taken most of his pictures with either an analogue SLR or a rangefinder camera, he has evidently much to learn about “waist-level” imaging.

In certain ways, TLRs are simpler than SLRs. Because they use two separate objective lenses riding on the same focusing carrier—one for the viewfinder, the other for taking the actual picture—no mechanism is needed to prevent light from reaching the film while the image is being focused. To block the light, a traditional SLR needs either a noisy focal-plane shutter, or the reflex mirror itself is made to do the job. In either case, the mirror has to be flipped out of the way when the shutter is depressed, so light can pass from the lens to the film.

By contrast, the reflex mirror used in a TLR (for turning the light through 90º so the image can be seen on the big ground-glass viewfinder on the top of the camera) is fixed. Not having to be flipped out of the way, there is therefore no shutter lag. Like a rangefinder camera, a TLR takes its picture the instant the shutter is released.

That comes in handy in street scenes and other situations involving sudden movement. No wonder the Rolleiflex was used so widely on the battlefield by photographers on both sides during the second world war. Your correspondent feels privileged to follow in their footsteps.

 

Source: http://www.economist.com/blogs/babbage/2012/10/photography

MAMIYA C330F – The Best Mamiya TLR

MAMIYA C330F – magnusslayde.

 

Description and function of the C330F camera, and it’s capabilities, flaws and quirks.

     The MAMIYA C-330F was the final version of the “C” series cameras built by the MAMIYA camera corporation of JAPAN. The “F” model was the final model produced into 1980 by the MAMIYA corporation, it was a moderatly priced unit that came with an 80mm (normal) lens, that allow professionals, and advanced amateurs to create with a great deal of flexibility and capability in the medium format 6cmX6cm (2.25″x2.25″) square realm. The twin lens system on an extension bellows allowed for extreme closeups without the use of closeup lenses or extensions, and there are a number of accesories available for this camera as well. Here are it’s following abilities;

mamiya c330

  • uses 120 and 200 film
  • Self cocking with film advance on most of the lenses (not on the 180 or 250mm though)
  • Double exposure capable
  • Interchangeable focus screens
  • right angle viewers (porrofinders) available
  • parallax correction devices

     There are a number of safety interlocks to prevent ruining film, or accidental exposures from occuring, until the user get’s used to them, they can be detrimental to action photography, as it’s easy to mis a shot from not setting things just right on the camera. The porro finders also suffered from low light when used, mostly with the mirror type, but some complaints with the prism were heard as well. The lenses are all excellent quality and design, the give supperior photos, usually only seen with German or Russian optics, comparable to the Japanese lenses used in the KONI OMEGA Rapid 100,200 and M series. The lenses available are as follows;

  • 55mm (wide angle) F4.5
  • 65mm (wide angle) F3.5
  • 80mm (normal) F2.8
  • 105mm (normal ,good portrait lens) F3.5                           
  • 135mm  (telephoto) F4.5
  • 180mm (telephoto) F4.5
  • 250mm (telephoto) F6.5

      Some users including myself have found that the 180mm and 250mm old style lenses don’t quite fit the MAMIYA C330F camera, the lens connection is the same, but he aluminum and steel cases of the lenses are just a little too big, and jam the self cocking lever. I have a perfect old style 180mm that I carefully marked with a map pencil as to the area of the case that the cocking lever rubs across when operating, and then ground down the case in that area with a DREMEL rotary tool, and the used sanding cuffs the the dremel to smoooth it out, now the camera works with the lens, and allow the film to advance, with the 180 and 250mm you have to cock the lens manually anyway, so this isn’t a big issue.

Manual for C330F

http://www.butkus.org/chinon/mamiya/mamiya_c330f_prof/mamiya_c330f_prof.htm

Photos by Mamiya C330F:

beautiful set about portrait:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/donlam/tags/c330f/page4/

Another set about landscape and stills:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/46665374@N06/sets/72157623230753752/with/4376981854/

Seagull 4A-105 Review

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A twin-lens reflex (TLR) camera offers you an entry price point into medium-format photography. Instead of the usual SLR design of cameras such as Hasselblad and Mamiya, a TLR has two lenses. The top one provides an image on a ground-glass viewing screen and the bottom is used to record the photograph directly onto film.

The 4A-105 is the latest in a succession of models from the Chinese twin-lens reflex manufacturer Shanghai Seagull. Each model that has appeared has had slight modifications to improve the handling and this one includes the following:

Features at a glance
Type: Twin-lens reflex
Lens: Non-interchangeable 75mm f/3.5
Construction: Three elements
Closest focus: One metre
Shutter speed range: 1sec to 1/300sec +B-setting
Flash sync speed: up to 1/300sec
Aperture range: f/3.5-f/22

Other features:

  • Depth-of-field scale
  • Self timer with 6-14sec delay
  • Cable release socket
  • Flash sync socket
  • Hot shoe
  • Magnifying finder
  • Sports finder
  • Tripod mount
Seagull TLR review

The Seagull costs 189 including VAT and is available from importer Kauser in Hertfordshire. It looks very much like a Yashica 124G or old Rolleiflex and is designed to be used as a waist-level camera. A hood flips up on the top and allows you too look down onto a shielded screen to focus and compose your photograph. The hood is easy to return to its flat storage position. You just squeeze the sides and give a gentle push and it all collapses into place. Raising is just as easy – gripping the sides and lifting so it springs into place.

Seagull TLR review When you look down into the hood you see a reversed image. This is one of the disadvantages of this type of camera and does, if it’s your first time using one, take time to grasp. If the subject moves to your left it will appear to move to the right in the viewfinder and your instincts won’t follow.

To use the camera you cradle it in the left hand and use your right to wind the film on and press the shutter release. The plunger is threaded so a cable-release can be attached.

 

Seagull TLR review The viewing screen has a ground glass surface to help make the image easier to focus. It goes slightly darker into the corners, but overall the image is bright thanks to the f/2.8 viewing lens. In the centre is a horizontal split line surrounded by a microprism style circle. These are used to provide accurate focusing. The split image is a familiar item on single-lens reflex cameras and splits the subject’s vertical lines in two when the subject is out of focus. As you move to the correct focusing distance the lines gradually become closer until they meet and correct focus is obtained. The microprism shimmers when the subject is out of focus and appears clear when it’s in focus. You can use each or a combination to help you gain perfect focus or, at least, that’s what you hope! (see comments later)

 

If you rely on peering down into the finder you won’t be able to focus accurately and to assist the Seagull has a pop up magnifier that you reach by pressing in a plate on the face of the hood. The magnifier is used with your eye pressed up to it and still allows you to view the whole image area, but concentrate on the inner focusing aids.
A large knurled wheel on the left of the camera is used to focus and the lens mount moves backwards or forwards to adjust the lens’ distance from the film.

 

Seagull TLR review

I found the focusing hard to determine. Despite having both options, neither seemed to be very accurate and it took too long to be sure I was happy.

Also look at the bright white vertical line to the right of the magnifier (pic above). This is the hinge of the hood and it lets light in. Although this will do no harm to the film it did cause stray light to hit the focusing screen in bright weather and made it difficult to focus, especially when the sun was in front of me.

Seagull TLR review If you push the plate on the top of the hood fully in it locks down at both sides and allows you to view directly through the hood when raised. This is called a sports finder and is designed for fast action pics where focusing is at a predetermined distance, so you can have everything set up and use the camera like a direct vision model. Crude but quick.

 

The latches that lock it down are not secure enough and it occasionally popped back up when I caught the hood, by accident. The advantage here though is it does always flip back up when you want it to. On some cameras I’ve used you really have to tug at the hood to make it spring out of the way.

Seagull TLR review When loading a film you release the back using a dial on the base of the camera. This rotates to release a spring mounted catch and the back hinges open. Two plungers spring out to allow the film spool and take up spool to be positioned and locked in place. When the film’s loaded you shut the back and rotate the dial to the C position which pulls the catch inwards to secure the back. The gap at the bottom seems wider than the one at the top and it looks as though it’s ill-fitting. No light got in so this is just a cosmetic thing. I’d prefer to see it flush with less movement, I was initially conscious that the lock might release and the back would spring open while I was using the camera, but it proved solid enough.

Four raised metal feet ensure the camera balances firmly when placed on a table, but these got in the way of the tripod platform I used and didn’t allow an even fixture.

When a film has been loaded you use a large advance lever to wind on. The camera locks at frame 1(indicated in a small circular window above the wind on lever) Safety features ensure the lever will not advance until the shutter is fired and picture taken. The shutter will not fire until the film is advanced. There is no shutter lock so I would suggest you only wind on when ready to take a photograph to avoid accidental shots. The 4A-107, with its four element lens, does have a shutter lock.
The lever is quick to advance film and has a good action.
Seagull TLR review

There is no exposure meter built in to this camera instead you need a handheld meter or a good knowledge of exposure settings.

Seagull TLR review When you know what the exposure is, you set it on the dials at either side of the lens. The left hand side has shutter speeds, the right hand side has apertures. These slide to adjust. The shutter speed is click stopped and the aperture is smooth, allowing infinite adjustment between settings. Both are positioned so you can adjust with the thumb of each hand as you cradle the camera. I’ve already picked up on several crude points of this camera and the worst is the shutter speed marker that doesn’t align correctly with the settings. It’s about half way in between so if you forget which way this appears you have to slide it to the extreme to see which setting it actually refers to. The aperture slider is a little coarse and appears to grate as it’s moved.

On the picture above you can see a small lever with a red dot just below and to the right of the word REFLEX. This is the mechanical self-timer that allows a variable delay of between 8 and 14 seconds depending on where you move it to. It’s all guess work so you’ll need to get a feel for how far you need to pull it. Practice without a film in the camera.

We used this for some interior shots to prevent camera vibration when it was mounted on a tripod. Three shots later and it broke! The film advance still worked but the shutter release didn’t open the shutter or activate the timer, resulting in the third roll of film being blank and the camera inoperable.

Below the self timer is a standard flash sync terminal which is used to connect any electronic flash with a coaxial cable. There’s also a more convenient hot shoe on the side although this was slightly loose on our model so I wouldn’t trust it with a larger gun. The beauty with a camera like this, with its leaf shutter, is flash can be used at any speed – shame the top speed is only 1/300sec, but it’s still as good as the best SLR cameras and proves perfect for fill in flash in most conditions.

Seagull TLR review The focusing wheel provides smooth adjustment and is easy to control. On the side is a depth-of-field scale indicating distances in meters with all the apertures. The red mark shows where you’ve focused and the alternate black and white marks show the depth-of-field at the various apertures. This is a well designed scale and very easy to use.

Test pictures

Seagull TLR review A straightforward shot of flowers. The subject was about 1.3metres away and overcast lighting ensured there was no complex metering involved.

There’s good detail in the plants and the background is subtly out of focus thanks to the selected f/3.5 wide aperture. This was taken on Fujichrome RDP100.

 

Seagull TLR review The lens shows no signs of vignetting into the edges which is something you may find on older TLRs, but the photos are not razor sharp. When magnifying the railings in the centre of the frame it was noticeable that details was starting to fall. Overall it the trannie would enlarge to about 12in without problem, but so would an image shot on a good 35mm SLR,

 

Seagull TLR review I deliberately ensure the bottom of the upper window was included in the frame to see how the lens responded to flare. There’s a fair degree of ghosting. This shot also shows the lens doesn’t suffer from distortion.

 

Seagull TLR review
To check my constant annoyance of the focusing accuracy I deliberately set the lens to f/3.5 and chose a subject with a variable distance background. I used the magnifier to focus on the wooden sculptures. The camera was mounted on a sturdy tripod and the delayed action used to prevent any movement. I didn’t focus accurately. And that’s a big problem. There’s no point in having all the benefits of a larger format camera if you end up with out of focus pictures. The camera definitely needs a better focusing screen!

 

Verdict
Throughout the test I have been fairly harsh on this camera, particularly in construction. For background info I have owned or usSeagull TLR reviewed many medium-format cameras over the years. I admit I prefer the single-lens reflex type, but readies the TLR has a very useful place. One of the main benefits is the lack of a mirror clunking around causing vibration and noise. The shutter is almost silent on a TLR and there’s no vibration. The Seagull delivers in both these areas a great camera for candid photography and one that can be used in church for weddings without annoying the vicar. The other main benefit of a TLR is cost. Currently the Seagull is the only one you can buy new and I suspect that’s why it has a price of 189. When you could by the Yashicamat 124G, a better built camera with a built-in exposure meter, it sold for about 149. SLRs haven’t risen in price since then, so there’s no reason why this would have happened to TLRs either. If the Yashica was still available it would probably have cost no more than 160, in relative terms this makes the Seagull worth about 130 maximum. Overpriced but no alternative? Well yes, If you don’t mind buying a second-hand camera you can pick up a Yashicamat 124G for about 129 and in my view it’s a far better camera. You can also find Mamiya TLR cameras with interchangeable lenses for a similar price to the new Seagull and they have better build and much better close focus capability. You may even prefer an SLR and it’s possible to buy old Mamiya 645s or Bronica ETRs for not much more than the Seagull.

Having said all this, if you prefer the comfort of a new camera and don’t mind paying slightly over the odds, the Seagull will not disappoint in optical performance, providing you can get on with the focusing and can put up with the crude aspects of the build, oh and avoid that self timer!

Test by Peter Bargh

Update! Comment from supplier

Volume determines price. The factories does not sell the numbers they used to. Competition is another factor. In the days of the Yashicamat there were several TLRs in the marketplace. Today, there is the Rollei and nothing else.

The Seagull is not the tin box it used to be and Minolta’s input has improved the quality of components and build. It still has some way to go to match that of the German & Japanese but gradually it is getting there. Ali Kamruddin, Kauser International

Also regarding price: Global Cameras sell the camera for 160 which makes it a better buy.

 

Source