Tag Archives: restoration

Dont miss a screw :)

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mirnuj_atom says:

Hi
A’ve got a Minolta Autocord (without light meter) which has a leak problem, it looks like this:

cs411016.userapi.com/v411016386/1d2c/nGzFR802jBc.jpg

cs411016.userapi.com/v411016386/1d0a/08mvY_vCYV0.jpg

cs411016.userapi.com/v411016386/1d01/pdI3-8teUDM.jpg

cs302406.userapi.com/v302406386/2752/aiaZRwnccvs.jpg

First I thought that was a problem with seal so I replaced that, nothing changed. Then I replaced seal once again and pasted over clefts with black, non transparent tape, nothing changed again 😦

Now I don’t know where might that leak come from,

Thank you for any suggestions.
Posted at 10:32AM, 7 August 2012 PDT (permalink)

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Burnt Umber  Pro User  says:

I think it is a shutter issue.
Posted 2 weeks ago. (permalink)

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ddandan  Pro User  says:

Any chance that the focus scale on front is missing a screw on one side or the other?
Posted 2 weeks ago. (permalink)

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ddandan  Pro User  says:

, your links don’t register as actual links. I cut and pasted one, but that’s all I’ll do.

Check for any other missing screws. Spool knobs, focus hood. Check the feet for bending and cracks.

Important question with any light leak- does the effect stop at the edge of the image frame, or is it also in non-image areas? This tells if thel ight is coming from the front of the light box- shutter, lens board, etc.- or if it is from elsewhere.

Also open the back and put the film against the opening as if it was being exposed. See where the leak falls inside the camera. Including at the upper or lower film spool area- most often film gets fogged before or after it is in the gate for exposure. From what I remember of oyur shot (nope, not cutting and pasting again) it had the look of a film spool being the cut-off for the lower part.
Posted 2 weeks ago. (permalink)

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keltic_tom  Pro User  says:

Stop the guessing and take the camera to a Pro!
Posted 2 weeks ago. (permalink)

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hamhankjohn  Pro User  says:

From the squarish shape in the middle of the frame, and the position of the bright spot, my guess is it’s the bottom spool release knob or close to it. Does it show up on the last frame?
Posted 2 weeks ago. (permalink)

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mirnuj_atom says:

Ddandan is right there is a missing screw on the front, it took 5 films to figure out 😦

Thank you very much!!

I will shot another film today to verify.
Posted 2 weeks ago. (permalink)

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ddandan  Pro User  says:

About right, five rolls. I think it took me four to figure it out when it happened to me? I had simply not re-installed the plate after doing some work on the camera. Drove me crazy. Tried new seals, taping the outside of the back in different areas, etc.
Posted 2 weeks ago. (permalink)

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WB Lynch says:

Great news.

I need to remember this for future reference.
Posted 2 weeks ago. (permalink)

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ddandan  Pro User  says:

There are many holes in TLR bodies that were drilled all the way through. These provide easy access to light if the screws are removed. You can see the holes inside the film chamber, etc. In the mirror box are other holes that come through.

For manufacturing, this makes sense. Drilling all the way through is quick, allows the chips from tapping to be blown out easily, etc.
Originally posted 2 weeks ago. (permalink)
ddandan edited this topic 2 weeks ago. 

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mirnuj_atom says:

Everything is OK now, I am happy.

What I did to find the leak:
I took a few LEDs from my bike lights, wired them with little bataries, put everything into the camera and checked in dark room to find if I can see some lite.
Posted 2 weeks ago. (permalink

DIY Replacing Mirror in Old twin lens reflex cameras

This time, replace the mirror surface (mirror surface reflection) is the name of the domestic machine Ricoh flex VII.

Twin-lens reflex, so it is most similar to the structure, time does not change the Minolta auto code in Rolleiflex.

Mirror surfaces are then extracted in this way is usually degraded. Focus position is not changed even by changing the mirror surface of the structure because it is pressed against the stopper plate spring on the left.

To which the mirror surface is available, those sold for repair camera is generally very expensive.

Cut glass is in the hardware store. It is sufficient for the cheapest ones.

It is a simple glass cutting than I had expected. I think the bend while pulling on both sides put the scratches in the glass cut it hang. Can not peel off the protective sheet until the end of the blue.

Repair of dozens of twin-lens reflex is possible with a single mirror of ¥ 1,890.

No doubt because it is so you do not put a face sheet of blue glass cutting shed.

You have put a protective sheet surface of the front side blue. I’ll leave this up to the mounting surface of the sheet, so very weak.
This is a Ricoh flex, it is exactly the same procedure in the Rolleiflex.
The mirror is fixed by simply pressing plate spring. Then, peel off the protective sheet of blue.
Shiny. Brightness of the finder was felt more than doubled to experience.

I want to try so very simple. Finder of the old twin-lens reflex is to regain the glow of the time.

This flex Aires automat (with Nikkor).

Hood focus of many twin-lens reflex depart with four screws.

Severe degradation of the mirror surface. Is how the mounting plate is pressed against the stopper in the spring as well. Even if there is no movement of the focus to be replaced.
We cut a new surface mirror. Since the tip of the cut glass is not stable at normal scale, I will use one that does not slip if there is a certain thickness.

Cutting units of 100-yen shops, this is also useful as a mouse pad actually.

Here but have to peel off the sheet, those who do not have good peel.

So I tried to put Fresnel incidentally here buying.

WARNING *** ***

Let’s not act to earn margins, such as auction based on information that has been opened to the public on amateur camera repair workshop.

via Replace the mirror surface of the old twin-lens reflex.

Minolta Autocord CDS Restoration/ Repair

Below is a google translation of a japanese camera restoration website

Source: http://endoscopy.jp/moto/camera/camera_repair/minolta_cds/

I think Autocord CDS Model I released in 1965. The shutter is Citizen MVL, 1-1/500.

First machine with a built-in exposure meter Cds. In order to decompose the aperture began to wee on.

 

Structure is almost the same as the old code auto.

Must be removed so that it will screw (knob switching of flash and the flash bulb) parts of the arrow.

Citizen MVL shutter. Minolta A3 is the same as the shutter. Was a small amount of lubrication in particular there was no problem. Enlarged view of the shutter ishere .

Aperture clung around oil. Close call in the state of the aperture pin would fly a little more. Back on safe ground and washed with benzene

 

Remove the swing look funny because of the exposure meter. Aperture and shutter does not work at all in a very simple exposure meter.

A simple exposure meter individual Cds, two pieces of resistance. Are waving at right angles to the optical axis on the mirror. Improved somewhat with the cleaning of the contacts. Cds is so deteriorated that much. At a later date, will be replaced with new.

Enlargement is here